There are 2 golden rules to
successful fish keeping.
1. Do not over feed your aquarium.
2. Carry out frequent water changes.
2.5 (Oh, yes! Avoid using tap water to clean filter sponges).
Having allowed your tropical
(or fancy coldwater) aquarium 7 days to settle and having added
tap water conditioner, Choose some hardy species of fish that are
appropriate for
the size of your aquarium.
At feed time: feed small quantities
at a time, watching your fish eat all the food. Allow 1 minute of
active feeding for the first 5 weeks of starting a new aquarium.
Allow 2 - 3 minutes of active feeding in a mature aquarium.
Fortnightly water changes of 25% of the aquarium. OR if time
does not allow fortnightly changes,
we suggest change 50% of your water every 4 weeks (monthly),
preferably using a gravel syphon if
you have a gravel substrate.
Simple! Now apart from allowing your fish
plenty of room in a suitably sized aquarium, you should be able
to enjoy healthy fish in a healthy aquarium for many years.
Other more detailed information below!
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
Here are a number of small information/subjects.
They are brief and cover only the basic important points
of the subject. More information is available by asking a staff member. |
1) HOW
MANY FISH AND WHAT SIZE? |
2) HOW MUCH WATER DO GOLDFISH REQUIRE? |
To ensure a large
margin of comfort for your fish,
we will recommend.
Goldfish: Allow min 10 litres per
fish.
Minimum temporary aquarium size 20 litres. change to larger tank
ASAP. Fancy goldfish min. 15l each.
Tropical fish:
1cm of fish per litre of water (60 litres = 60cm of fish)
Max fish size (1:10) a 6 cm long (body). = 60 litre aquarium.
Experienced fish keepers (at their own risk) sometimes choose to
exceed these levels. This is possible but may reduce the safety
comfort margin of the fish.
Fish compatability: Like most animals, fish have
variations in their social habits. We can offer advice but are
unable to offer guarantees of compatability.
Territorial disputes can be a cause of disruption within an
aquarium, it can help
to reposition decor when introducing new
fish.
The internet can offer some usefull advice when researching
new species. |
When
cared for, goldfish can live for over 20 years. We advise you to
allow your young 5cm goldfish a minimum of 10 litres of water each.
(30 litre tank = 3 goldfish) As your fish grow they will require a
larger aquarium.
There are 2 types of Goldfish.
Common (slim
single tail)
& Fancy (twin tailed round bodied.)
Common goldfish
may live in an unfiltered aquarium. (weekly water changes)!
All
Goldfish benefit from the addition of a filter.
The fancy goldfish
require filtration and lots of swimming space.
We offer the advice
that: 'mixing the 2 types can sometimes result in the fancy
species being denied the ability to feed, by the faster common
species'.
With care aquarists can achieve this mix safely.
NOTE:
Correct feeding and regular water changes are the key to goldfish
health and successful fish keeping. Sinking (best) or floating
granular pellet foods and occasional frozen foods, are all that is
required to keep your goldfish healthy.
(small goldfish = 6 granules per fish per day) |
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3) NEW FISH FOR YOUR AQUARIUM |
4) ACCLIMATISING YOUR NEW FISH |
Having set up your
new aquarium, you should wait 7 days before adding your first
fish. This tests the aquarium equipment and the integrity of the
glass aquarium. It also allows the 'filters bacteria starter
culture' to start maturing the aquariums filters. Most Local
Councils issue licences to pet shops that include the condition of
'use best practice' (this means do not hurry and
take the care of the animals welfare to be top priority). All
shops have to comply with this rule.
We have colour coded many fish price tags. You should start
by adding a small number of yellow labelled fish:
these are the hardiest species that will tolerate tiny amounts of ammonia and nitrite. (common during the
filter maturing period). after 4 to 5 weeks your filter will be
mature this is when white label fish can be added. With experience
you can add the green labeled fish
(do some research first) use test kits to monitor water quality. |
Carefully and promptly, take your new fish home.
Open the fish bag
and add
1/2 a cup of aquarium water from your aquarium. Wait two minutes,
add another 1/2 a cup repeat this proces 4 or 5 more times. This will equalise
the water chemistry, as well as the temperature. Now gently allow
the fish to swim into the aquarium.
Keep the lights off for 1
hour.
To help prevent territorial bullying, reposition some decor
in the aquarium. Observe your fish over the next few days for signs of stress.
As fish have individual charicteristics
occasionally compatibility issues can occur. We are available for
advice if required. Best practice is to quarintine all new stock
for 7 days prior to adding
to your main aquarium. |
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5) FRIENDLY / HARMLESS BACTERIA |
6) AQUARIUM MAINTAINENCE |
Nature has evolved a specilised bacteria that breaks down dead
organic material. Both the leaves from the trees and the waste
from your fish will be broken down into increasingly less
dangerous compounds by 'Bacteria'. In your aquarium
These, 'Nitrifing bacteria
will colonise your filter media, as the filter pumps water through
the media, the nitrifying bacteria absorb the waste products.
They convert fish waste in the form of 'ammonia' into 'nitrites'
then the nitrites are converted into 'nitrates'. This removes the
toxic effects of the waste. To colonise a filter completely takes
4 to 5 weeks. During this time it is important not to over feed or
over stock your aquarium. Bacteria will be killed if exposed to
tap water, so always clean any reusable filter media in used
aquarium water, not under the tap. |
Changing up to 50% of the aquarium water monthly, ( or 25%
fortnightly) will ensure the gravel substrate is free from
excessive detritus and maintain the health of your aquarium fish.
Use a gravel cleaner to drain the water from your aquarium. When
used thoroughly over the aquarium gravel it will remove the
detritus that has accumulated. Replace water with heated and
dechlorinated tap water.
Excessive algae or snails are often a
sign that the Aquarium gravel has not been effectively maintained.
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7) ALGAE IN THE AQUARIUM |
8) SNAILS IN THE AQUARIUM |
Algae is a
naturally occurring plant life. Just like any other plant, algae
requires a few things to thrive. Including: light, water and food.
The control of algae is a simple process of controlling these 3
parameters......Lighting should only be on for 6 to 8 hrs per day.
Water changes should be carried out regularly, Minimum 50% per
month using a gravel syphon. This will remove the fish waste,
within this waste are the nutrients that the algae will use as a
food source. In tropical aquariums, Sucker mouth catfish
(pleco's), snails and algae shrimps may also help control algae.
NEW INFO: An incredibly effective new algicide has been
developed that is producing outstanding results. See instore for
details. |
Snails are a natural part of every eco-system,
though unsightly they cause no harm to fish or plants.
They can be introduced to your aquarium as eggs or live baby
snails in bags of fish, plant or gravel. they are opportunists,
they will multiply in a similar manner to mice, when there is an
excess of food they will breed to use the available food source.
To eradicate the snails you must reduce excessive feeding and
ensure that regular gravel syphoning is carried out to remove the
excess food. Botia loaches or assassin snails (cannibal snails) can
also be used to eradicate snails if required. |
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9) AQUARIUM MINERAL SALT |
10) PLANT GROWTH AND CO2 |
As rainfall
percolates through soil and rocks it absorbs natural minerals and
salts, This water ultimately enters the water table where the fish
utilise the minerals for their health. Tap water has a low mineral
content.
The addition of Aquarium salt adds minerals to the
aquarium, providing electrolytes and helping the fish produce
oxygen through their gills.
The addition of one teaspoon of
'aquarium mineral salt' per gallon of aquarium water will ensure
mineral balance in your aquarium. Particularly good for
livebearing fish. |
In addition to
adequate light & a liquid fertilizer, plants will grow at an
accelerated rate by the addition of CO2. Aquarium plants absorb
dissolved carbon dioxide (CO2) and convert it into carbohydrates
through photo-synthesis. This energy is stored in the stems,
leaves and tubers, fuelling growth as required. It is only
consumed during photoperiods when light is available (on). CO2
levels can be increased to improve plant growth rates by a new
daily additive that has been producing outstanding results. Come
instore to see our demonstration aquarium set up. Cost approx 5p
per 100l per day. |
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11) AQUARIUM WOOD. (& decor) |
12) WATER PUMP & POWER HEAD CARE |
Having selected
your aquarium bogwood, we would encourage you to spend a little
time ‘processing’ it before adding it to your aquarium. Bogwood
can release tannin’s into your aquarium. Tannin is completely
harmless though it may discolour your aquarium water to a yellow
tea colour. To help prevent this, soak the bogwood in a bucket of
water for a day or two, scrubbing it a few times during each day.
Before adding the wood to your aquarium, pour a kettle of boiling
hot water all over it to seal the wood pores.
Slate & Rocks: To test the suitability of rock & slate, add a
strong vinegar to the item. If it bubbles and reacts...do not add
it to your aquarium, as it may alter the water chemistry. |
A
water pump is a critical peice of equipment.
Consider the
availability of spares 'at short notice' when purchasing your pump
or. Consider having a spare pump.
Regular maintenance is required on all underwater pumps and power
heads. unplug, then remove the pump and disassemble. This should
expose the 'impeller', remove this, taking care to retain any
washers and end caps. Using a cotton bud clean the impeller well
and the impeller blades/magnet, reassemble carefully. this should
be carried out every 8 weeks. This may also be required if the
pump stops working due to grit / gravel entering the pump and
jamming the impeller |
The chemistry of water management |
The graph and information show how nature has provided a simple
solution to
'what do we do with all the waste'?
2 types of bacteria will naturally inhabit your filter (during 5
week maturation period) and provided
there is a flow of oxygen rich water, they will 'eat' 'convert'
'breakdown' (any term you prefer) the waste and turn it into Less
harmfull compounds including Nitrate & a little plant
food.
These graphs and charts
may look daunting at first glance,
they are easy for us to explain to you instore.
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The aquarium nitrogen
cycle (How your filter matures). |
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THE NITRIFICATION CYCLE
(graph above)
AMMONIA (NH4) IS PRODUCED BY FISH AS ‘WASTE’ & BY DECOMPOSITION OF
FOOD aAND ALSO AS A BY-PRODUCT OF FISH
RESPIRATION. THIS WILL ACCUMULATE IN THE AQUARIUM UNTIL: WITHIN
YOUR FILTER ‘NITRASOMONAS’ (NITROSPIRA) BACTERIA WILL GROW AND MULTIPLY. THEY
WILL CONSUME (CONVERT) ALL OF THE AMMONIA. BUT PRODUCE NITRITE
(NO2) AS A WASTE PRODUCT. THIS WILL ACCUMULATE IN THE AQUARIUM UNTIL: A SECOND
‘NITROBACTER’ BACTERIA WILL MULTIPLY WITHIN YOUR FILTER, THEY WILL
CONSUME (CONVERT) ALL NITRITE AND CONVERT IT TO NITRATE NO3. (THIS
IS PARTLY CONSUMED AS A PLANT FOOD BY YOUR PLANTS).
NITRIFICATION IS COMPLETE WHEN LEVELS OF AMMONIA AND NITRITE ARE
‘0’.
YOUR FISH MAY BE STRESSED IF NH4 (AMMONIA) OR NO2 (NITRITE) LEVELS
= 1-2PPM.
PROBABLY DAMAGED OR WORSE IF LEVELS REACH 5PPM.
HOWEVER NITRATE (NO3) CAN BE TOLLERATED BY MOST FISH PAST 50PPM.
A TEST KIT WILL ALLOW YOU TO MONITOR ALL LEVELS, ENSURING A SAFE
ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR FISH. |
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Having
tested your aquarium water for the main test parameters. The
graph above will show you the relative comfort margin
of the aquarium for your fish. As we have seen in the graph above
the waste product of the aquarium is 'converted' to NO3 Nitrate
Via the 2 stages of Ammonia (NH4) and Nitrite (NO2). Try to
maintain your aquarium at the safe level where possible. However,
straying onto the 'caution' area is a reduction in the comfort of
your fish and should be remidied as soon as possible. |
Test kits
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As you can see from the picture shown, By completing the series of
tests in your kit. (Here we have used our standard test kit) you will have 4 test tubes filled with test
solution. after waiting the few minutes for the reaction
to take place, the results will present themselves. All tests
Vary from close matches to the comparison chart (see Ph 6.8 with
the 1st test tube) To 'the colours are different' (see
test 3 (NO2)) Where there is very little accuracy in the
colours, However we can see the intensity of colour. So, we
can deduce that the reading is towards the higher figures at
the high test response colours. with NO2 anything over 1ppm
Requires action, so 1 or 5 action is still needed.
NOTE: WE CONSIDER ONLY THE AMMONIA AND
NITRITE TESTS IMPORTANT ENOUGH TO RECOMMEND THAT FISHKEEPERS
SHOULD HAVE ACCESS TO. REGULAR WATER CHANGES AND CORRECT FEEDING,
SHOULD REDUCE THE NEED FOR pH & NITRATE TEST KITS. |
Other information you may find useful. |
What does 'brackish water' mean. for (spotted & fig 8) Puffer
& other fish species? |
Puffer fish are often refered to as
'Brackish water fish'. Brackish water contains between 0.5 and 30
grams of dissolved salt per litre of water, more often expressed
as 0.5 to 30 parts per thousand (ppt). Thus, brackish covers a
range of salinity regimes and is not considered a precisely
defined condition. It is characteristic of many brackish waters that their salinity can vary considerably
over space and/or time (seasonal). The area Pufferfish are found typicaly
contains between 0 to 4 ppt. 0 during the wet season when
freshwater is flowing down the 'Mekong' river, and up to 4 ppt
during the dry season, when the slower river allows 'salt water
creep', some sea water to make its way partly back upstream.
This salt content can be reintroduced to the
aquarium by adding
1 teaspoon of mineral salt per gallon of
aquarium water.
(This will not adversly affect most medium size
community tankmates). Though care should be taken to research
suitable tank
mates for the occasionally unpredictable pufferfish. (there are
many 'pure' freshwater puffer species). |
After adding new fish |
After following the step-by-step Acclimation Procedure for your
new fish, here are a few tips we recommend to make the transition
to its new home as stress-free as possible for your new tankmate:
-Provide plenty of hiding places for your new arrival. Rocks,
plants, and sheltering areas will reduce aggression and stress in the aquarium.
-Maintain good water conditions through proper maintenance to
ensure a healthy environment during this stressful period.
-Try to add more than one fish at a time to an established
aquarium. The chance of one particular individual being singled out and harassed will be minimized.
-Always feed your aquarium before any new fish are introduced.
This will help to reduce aggression toward new tankmates.
-Rearrange decorations in the aquarium before the introduction to
distract existing fish and remove established territories.
This will help the new fish by putting it on equal ground as new
territories are developed by all tankmates. By following these tips and adhering to the other pre-introduction principles of proper
selection and acclimation, your new and existing tankmates will have the best possible opportunity for a smooth transition
with minimal stress. |
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OUR LEGAL COMPLIANCE:
All retailers are obliged to
conform to the 'Animal welfare
act 2006'.
Part of the act (part 4), is important for retailers:
Part 4. section (2) A person commits an offence if—
(b) an act, or failure to act, of another person causes the animal
to suffer,
(c) he permitted that to happen or failed to take such steps
(whether by way of supervising the other
person or otherwise) as were reasonable in all the
circumstances to prevent that happening.
When we ask questions before suppling any animals it is to ensure:
Animals we supply are going to a suitable aquarium with
appropriate capacity and equipment.
And to help ensure they are free from un-necessary stress and are
cared for. to conform to the 'Animal welfare
act 2006'.
Southend
Council have adopted the ‘Model conditions for pet
vending licensing 2013’
We engage with the licensing dept. to ensure
that we comply fully with the Councils conditions.
Our part in this: Occasionally we are informed by
our customers,
'we only change water 'once per year'. 'We never use tapwater
conditioner' 'I only have a 4 litre bowl for a goldfish.
We are obliged (where possible) to give advice that is deemed
'good practice' (when advice is being sought from us).
We fully understand that there are many ways to successfully care
for home aquariums. Fish keepers from the 50's and 60's
successfully kept and bred fish without the equipment and advances
in modern equipment we have today.
However we hope all of our customers can appreciate that we have
to give advice (when asked and therefore in a supervisory role)
that is based on modern day 'best practice' and that conforms with
the 2006 Animal welfare act, 2013 & model conditions for pet
vending licencing and the current trading standards
acts. |